Every week, I get messages from aspiring models asking the same question: what do agencies actually want? They’ve scrolled through Instagram, they’ve seen the casting calls, they’ve maybe even submitted digitals to a few agencies and heard nothing back. The silence is confusing, especially when you look at the models who are getting signed and think, “but they look just like me.”

Here’s the thing Instagram won’t tell you: looking like a model and being bookable are two very different things.

I spent eight years in the industry as a working model before moving into journalism, and I’ve had honest conversations with bookers at every major Australian agency. What they tell me privately is quite different from what you’ll read on their submission pages.

Digitals Are Everything (and They’re Not What You Think)

When an agency asks for digitals, they don’t want your best Instagram photo with perfect lighting and a filter that shaves five years off your face. They want the opposite.

Digitals are simple, unedited photos taken in natural light: a headshot, a full-length shot, and a profile shot. No makeup or minimal makeup. Hair down, not styled. Plain clothing — a fitted white t-shirt and jeans is the standard. The point is to see your bone structure, your proportions, your skin, and your natural presence without any production.

Good agencies can look at a set of digitals and immediately assess whether you have the physical characteristics they can work with. A great set of digitals is worth more than a $3,000 portfolio of retouched studio shots that tells an agency nothing about what you actually look like at 7am on set.

If you’re submitting digitals, here’s what works: ask a friend to take the photos on a phone against a plain wall, near a window with natural light. Stand relaxed, don’t pose. Slight smile for the headshot, neutral for the others. That’s it. Agencies have seen millions of these. They know what they’re looking for.

The Height Question (Yes, It Still Matters)

I wish I could tell you that height requirements have been thrown out. They haven’t. For runway and high fashion editorial, most Australian agencies still look for women at 175cm minimum and men at 183cm minimum. Some agencies have flexibility down to 172cm for women with exceptional features.

Commercial print and digital modelling have more flexibility. If you’re 165cm with a great face and strong social media presence, agencies like Priscilla’s Model Management or the commercial boards of larger agencies will consider you. The work is different — catalogues, social media campaigns, e-commerce — but it’s consistent and it pays.

The growth of influencer-adjacent commercial modelling has genuinely opened doors for people outside traditional height ranges. But if you’re applying to walk at Australian Fashion Week, the measurements still matter. That’s the reality, whether we like it or not.

Mother Agencies and Why They Matter

If you’re based outside Sydney or Melbourne, finding the right mother agency is the most important step you’ll take. A mother agency is your first agency — they develop you, help you build a comp card, arrange test shoots, and then place you with agencies in larger markets.

Good mother agencies in regional areas and smaller capitals do genuine development work. They’ll tell you honestly whether you have potential, what you need to work on, and when you’re ready to be presented to agencies in Sydney or Melbourne.

Bad mother agencies charge upfront fees for “portfolio packages” and “development courses” and never actually place anyone. This is the oldest scam in the industry. Legitimate agencies make money by booking you work and taking a commission. If someone asks you for money before they’ve booked you a single job, walk away.

In Australia, the Fashion Model Agency Association maintains a list of accredited agencies. It’s not exhaustive, but it’s a starting point for checking legitimacy.

What Bookers Actually Notice

I asked six bookers at Australian agencies what makes them stop scrolling through submissions. Here’s what they consistently said:

Confidence, not arrogance. In a go-see or casting call, agencies notice how you carry yourself. Can you walk into a room of strangers and seem comfortable? Can you take direction without freezing up? This isn’t about being extroverted — some of the most successful models I know are quiet people. It’s about being present and adaptable.

Skin quality. This sounds superficial, and it is. But modelling is a visual industry. Clear, healthy skin photographs well and reduces post-production costs. Agencies notice skin before almost anything else in digitals.

Proportionality. Not thinness — proportionality. How your frame carries clothing. How your shoulders relate to your hips. These are the measurements that determine whether sample sizes fit you, and sample size fit is still the foundation of most fashion modelling work.

Something different. Every booker I spoke to mentioned being drawn to faces that have something unexpected. A gap in the teeth. Freckles. An unusual bone structure. The industry has moved past the era of wanting everyone to look identical, and agencies actively seek models who stand out.

Test Shoots: When to Invest and When to Wait

A test shoot is a collaborative session between a model, photographer, and sometimes a stylist and makeup artist, where everyone works for free (or shared costs) to build their portfolios. They’re an essential part of developing your book.

But timing matters. Don’t invest in test shoots before an agency has expressed interest. If you’re spending money on elaborate photoshoots without agency guidance, you’re likely creating images that won’t represent you the way agencies want to see you.

Once you’re with an agency, they’ll recommend photographers for test shoots and guide the creative direction. These images should show range — different moods, lighting, and styling — while still looking like you. Over-production in test shoots is a red flag for agencies. They want to see versatility, not heavy editing.

The Instagram Myth

Here’s my unpopular opinion: Instagram followers are less important for getting signed than most people think. Yes, agencies consider social media presence, especially for commercial work. But a model with 200 followers and exceptional digitals will get signed over someone with 50,000 followers and average proportions.

Social media matters for commercial bookings once you’re working. It matters less for getting your foot in the door with a reputable agency. The agencies that prioritise follower count over physical suitability are generally not the agencies you want to sign with.

Focus on your digitals. Be realistic about your measurements. Find a legitimate agency. That’s the path that actually works in 2026 — the same as it was in 2006, just with better phone cameras for the digitals.