Every aspiring model in Australia has heard the same advice: “You need a strong portfolio.” What nobody tells you is that there’s a massive difference between a portfolio full of pretty pictures and a portfolio that actually gets you meetings with agencies.

I’ve spent years watching new talent make the same mistakes with their test shoots, and I’ve also seen some incredibly smart approaches that led to agency signings within weeks. The gap between the two is almost always about strategy, not about how photogenic someone is.

What Agencies Are Actually Looking For

Let’s start with something that surprises a lot of people. When a booker at an agency like Priscilla’s, Vivien’s, or Chadwick’s opens your portfolio, they’re not looking for the most glamorous shots. They’re looking for versatility and commercial viability.

A senior booker at a Melbourne agency once told me: “I’d rather see five simple shots that show me range than twenty over-produced images that all look the same.” That’s stuck with me, and it should stick with you too.

Here’s what they want to see in a test shoot portfolio:

• A clean headshot. Natural makeup, simple background, good lighting. This is your calling card.
• A full-length shot. Standing naturally, not in an exaggerated pose. They need to see your proportions clearly.
• Movement. Walking, turning, something that shows you’re not stiff in front of a camera.
• Different moods. At minimum, a commercial smile and a more editorial, serious expression.
• At least one outfit change. It doesn’t have to be anything expensive — it just shows you can look different.

That’s it. Five to eight strong images that cover those bases will do more for you than fifty beautifully art-directed but repetitive shots.

Choosing the Right Photographer

This is where most aspiring models go wrong. They either spend too much money on a big-name fashion photographer (who shoots beautiful images that don’t serve the portfolio’s purpose) or they spend too little on someone who doesn’t understand what agencies want.

The sweet spot is a photographer who has experience shooting model tests — specifically for agency submissions. In Australia, there’s a good community of photographers who specialise in this. Check Model Mayhem or local Facebook groups for photographers offering TFP (time for print) or affordable test shoot rates.

A few things to look for when choosing a photographer:

Check their existing portfolio for model tests. Not just fashion editorials — actual digitals and test shoots. The style should be clean and natural, not heavily edited.

Ask about lighting setup. Studio shoots with controlled lighting tend to produce more consistent results for agency submissions. Natural light can work beautifully, but it’s less predictable and requires more skill from the photographer.

Discuss the concept before the shoot. A good photographer will want to plan the shoot with you. If someone just says “show up and we’ll figure it out,” that’s a red flag.

Expect to pay between $150 and $500 in most Australian cities. Free TFP shoots exist, but the quality varies wildly. A modest investment in a photographer who knows what they’re doing is usually worth it.

Styling Your Test Shoot

Keep it simple. Seriously. I know it’s tempting to bring a suitcase full of outfits, but agencies don’t want to see you in a ball gown. They want to see you.

My recommended test shoot wardrobe:

• Plain white or black t-shirt (fitted, not oversized)
• Well-fitting jeans or trousers
• One slightly more dressed-up option — a simple dress or blazer
• Minimal jewellery
• Natural, understated makeup (or no makeup at all for certain looks)

The goal is to present a blank canvas. Agencies want to imagine you in their clients’ clothing, and they can’t do that if you’re wearing something distracting.

Common Mistakes That Kill Test Shoots

Over-retouching. If every image looks like it’s been run through a beauty filter, agencies will assume you’re hiding something. Minor blemish removal is fine. Reshaping your face or body is not.

Too many group shots. Group shots are fun but largely useless for portfolio purposes. The agency needs to see you alone.

Inconsistent quality. Five great images from one shoot beats twenty images from five different shoots with different styles, lighting, and quality levels. Consistency signals professionalism.

Ignoring digital submission guidelines. Most Australian agencies now accept online submissions. Check each agency’s website for their specific requirements — image size, format, number of photos. Sending forty images when they ask for eight is an immediate turn-off.

After the Shoot

Once you have your images, get a second opinion before submitting to agencies. Ask someone in the industry — another model, a photographer, even a fashion student. Fresh eyes catch things you’ll miss when you’ve been staring at your own face for hours.

Then, submit strategically. Don’t blast your portfolio to every agency in Australia simultaneously. Research which agencies represent models with your look and build. A targeted approach to three or four well-matched agencies will yield better results than a spray-and-pray to thirty.

Building a portfolio isn’t a one-time thing. Your test shoot images will need refreshing every few months as you grow and develop. But getting that first set right — that’s the foundation everything else builds on. Make it count.